Maria Labbato, PhD

Hiking Day 13, Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela: 13 miles

I made a pact with my friends to leave Pedrouzo early before the crowd. We set off at 6:30 AM and it was slightly dark and foggy. The plan was to walk together, but the fast pace of my friends made my body ache quickly. I also felt like this was my last chance to reflect, take in the experience, and appreciate the landscape and this journey. The truth is I also couldn’t keep up. As they walked ahead, I was alone and grateful. It was a cool, quieter morning than the day before. The walk was also more enjoyable with a return to seeing farm animals and walking through trees. A woman also walking solo exchanged photography services at a statue and when resuming walking, I heard her humming “Hallelujah.”  

My friends made sure to stop for a beer 5K from Santiago and wait for me so that we could enter the city together. This made reaching Santiago much more exciting, and I really appreciated it. The last few miles went by quickly and I put away my hiking poles. They had been supportive but also slowed me down. I felt more confident walking too, like I had overcome the worst of the aches and pains and nothing could take me out of commission at this point. It was odd ditching the poles, they felt like an appendage at this point. But it was also liberating and freeing. 

Our group took tons of pictures passing through the official city arch and in the pilgrim square. I was joyous but not overly emotional. I didn’t cry but I saw some people with an array of celebratory styles (many planned poses for Instagram!). We made it just in time to go through the pilgrim office for our certificate and get in the very long line for the pilgrim mass at the cathedral. The pilgrim office is not like in the movie, The Way. Someone takes your pilgrim credential to check it, but asks no questions. You’re directed to computers to enter your name, age, other pertinent information, and your purpose for walking the camino. There was no reflective, sentimental moment like Martin Sheen had. 

Walking through this tunnel before entering the cathedral square marks a pilgrim’s arrival to Santiago. Even until the end, my wet cloths are in tow.

Cathedral de Santiago

Compostelas are given on completion; names are recorded in Latin. The minimum walking distance to receive a certificate is 100 continuous kilometers

The cathedral is maybe the largest, most elaborately decorated cathedral I’d been in. By the time we made it through the long line we were 15 minutes late and had standing room only. I couldn’t understand much of the mass but my friend translated later that much of it was about how humbled the Cardinal felt to take his new position and be there with all of us pilgrims. It was a great experience for a few reasons. A just-crowned Cardinal delivering the mass is a rare occasion – a first for me. I also couldn’t help but observe the unison of all of us pilgrims shifting from one achy foot and leg to another. Lining up for communion I thought about the various reasons and stories that brought these hundreds of people together, at this moment, in this place. What had everyone gone through, before deciding to walk the camino and while on it? We were so different, yet similar.

The giant swinging incense burner in the Cathedral de Santiago, called Botafumeiro and weighing over 100 lbs. The tradition goes back to the Medieval period in attempts to mask the smell of hundreds of unwashed, sweaty pilgrims. It takes a group of priests to swing it, eventually flying high above the mass crowd.

The Cathedral’s roof tour was the highlight of the rest of my time in Santiago. You can peer down to watch pilgrims entering the square and I learned about the various historical building styles, like the influence of indigenous American pyramids shortly following conquest.

Pictured on the left is the Fonte dos Cabalos (Fountain of the Horses). A star is said to have led a 9th century Christian hermit to the resting place of the remains of James the Disciple. Compostela means field of stars. On the right is a Torta de Santiago, almond flour cake.

Having completed our journey, just celebrating and being a tourist was left. Both things felt unsettling and a relief at the same time. Mixed emotions aside, we enjoyed ourselves. I shopped for souvenirs and ate lovely meals with new friends. With my new Canadian friend, I took a bus to A Coruña. I had wanted to reach Finisterra or Muxia, as some pilgrims walk there by adding another 3-4 days to their camino. But there are buses and I assumed I might take a bus to one of these smaller fishing towns and spend one night before heading to Madrid. But it felt more appropriate to stay with my friends. These towns also proved too far to do for the day. A Coruña was more doable for an out and back day trip. I really wanted to see the coast one last time, and see how that might impact my reflection and letting go of the burdensome emotions and ruminations I have been carrying for years, and carried with me on my walk. 

The boardwalk in La Coruña

Roman-era lighthouse in La Coruña, the Tower of Hercules

I hadn’t dwelled on my emotional pain or past losses as much as I thought the solitude would invoke. Instead, walking ensured I stayed in the moment and present. The pain, the scenery, needing food, water, and shade surpassed the tendency or desire to ruminate on past relationships (and lack thereof). But I still carried much baggage; I knew this. I had a memento of a painful past that I carried in my backpack the whole trip. I also gripped it in my hand the last several miles into Santiago. It gave me motivation, strength, and a reminder of why (in part) I was making this journey. I enjoyed visiting A Coruña with my new friend, but also carved out a moment alone to pay homage to the camino, Spain, the coast, other pilgrims, and my own journey… leaving the memento behind.

I walked away lighter. I thought that might be a temporary feeling, high on the salt air, new friendships, and accomplishment. But since being home, there is a bit of a difference, a greater acceptance that just exists in my body. 

Yes, I do want to complete another camino!

Peace and Happy Hiking,

Maria