Day 2, San Sebastián to Zarautz: ~ 13.5 miles and 2,000 ft gain
Who knew I would be in Spain and unable to have my first day’s coffee until 11 AM. I anticipated that finding early morning coffee would be a challenge and I learned quickly how late cafes usually open (usually 8 to 10 AM). But grocery shopping or stocking my accommodations with a coffee the night before to be ready in the morning proved difficult for me, especially nights in albergues or hostels. Most mornings I would begin without caffeine and sometimes not have any until midday.
Climb and view out of San Sebastián
“Little Basque nest,” a lauburu or traditional Basque cross
Despite being undercaffeinated, the morning out of San Sebastián was lovely, yet a challenging and long climb. I walked around more people today than yesterday. I kept leapfrogging a group of older Spaniards who had done multiple caminos. They kept passing me, but would stop for something and I would catch up or pass them, just to be left in the dust again. But first thing in the morning I felt my calves from yesterday’s hike. There was a lot more pavement today than yesterday, so this is when the foot pain really began. And I would come to see that pavement was more of the norm than the exception on the Norte. God, how I dreaded long pavement stretches. Though, there were some short stretches that were somewhat flatter today – stress on the comparative tone. The Basque country is dramatic and you are very hard pressed to find anything flat. The scenery today took us through farms and more residential areas. The sea was in sight most of the day, which made the walk so much more enjoyable. It was mostly quiet and peaceful for the most part.
Lots of farm friends! Of almost 200 miles of walking, I only had ear buds in about 2 hours. I wanted to stay present and hear all of the sounds around me. My favorites were all of the animal sounds, birds and mooing. I grew to appreciate the smell of the cows and their oh-so-lovely excrement smells, as it mades you feel more connected to nature, earth, more human and alive.
You do not reach a cafe until about halfway through the day. It was like seeing an oasis. It was after 11 AM and I could finally get a coffee! This place was amazing, Txoko del Peregrino. A young man was out front serving juice, pilgrims were scattered about resting, and donation boxes here and there. I went inside to order coffee and toast and learned everything is simply donation based. The younger employees spoke great English and the young woman tried explaining to me that they have some sort of business or establishment outside of Hickory, Hiddenite. Small world! I found it on the map that evening and the only real business I could see was the Yellow Deli.
Well… Clueless until now at home and doing my research… I simply had the impression that these were kind, and likely pretty religious, people since they wanted to serve pilgrims. I was hungry, without coffee, and walking in relative isolation. I had not felt connected with a pilgrim community or feeling much in the way of pilgrim support since getting into San Sebastián. So, I really can’t describe the immediate feeling of relief and gratitude I had that they were there. I paid what I probably would have paid in a standard cafe in a city, but this felt different. I was grateful. If you don’t know Yellow Deli – like I didn’t – this organization is all over the world and run by the Twelve Tribes. I’ll leave you to look it up but it is a religious organization popularly categorized as a cult. One that is abusive? Deeply religious and into communal living? I don’t know, I won’t dig too much. I wonder a lot now about the young woman who spoke with me…
Soon after returning to the road well-nourished, by questionable means, there was a very steep, cobblestone descent. I really had to go so slow, it was painful. At the end of it was the town of Orio and my feet were so sore and tight. There was a bar and I saw a pilgrim group having lunch but I didn’t stop. I really didn’t think I could walk more. I hoped on that metro and instead of about 16 miles, I completed about 13.5. After the private room, but with a shared bath and all night partiers in San Sebastián then a night bunking it in a hostel, a hotel room felt like absolute luxury! How we come to appreciate comforts when we’ve been so out of our comfort zone. I still had no AC, but a very powerful floor fan and upon opening the windows, there was only peaceful silence!
Once in a while, make sure to stop and look back at how far you’ve come. I had several Homeward Bound moments. Gazing back at expanses of mountains, astounded that I could have walked all that way… just like I felt when watching the movie and being amazed that those little animals could trek across mountains to find their way back home.
And looking ahead, more pavement!
Equally satisfying was check-in, finding my second backpack was there (although I had the airtag that Larry wore on hikes inside of it and I could keep tabs on its movement through the day if desired… it’s name is LarBear with a little dog icon – Larry was making the camino journey with me in yet another form). The receptionist brought me to the room for transported bags and commented on how small mine was. What did I find? Probably 20 small and large suitcases. So, it is confirmed, Correros WILL transport luggage as well as backpacks. This contributed to my overall feeling of relief at the end of day two. I had figured out a big logistical piece and was now in a pilgrim flow and rhythm. It felt good, even if my feet and calves did not.
Zarautz Beach. The tide was dramatic here too. Probably within 20 minutes, the waves were crashing up against the coastal wall.
I did let doubt and ego creep in, however. Ego in that at several points through the day I felt somewhat self-conscious. Perhaps that was being alone, being from the U.S., and seeing mostly European pilgrims in pairs or groups. And I was still enmeshed in touristy beach towns where I felt out of my environment. I was also comparing my physical abilities to others, though I tried not to. I let the doubt take me to catching the bus for a couple of miles the next morning. My biggest priority was to see the Flysch. And once you begin walking and leave a town behind, it is quite difficult to predict if you’ll be able to hop on a train, bus, or catch a ride. So, leaving Zarautz the next morning by bus (I had a huge bus to myself, and the municipal buses in this region are large, charter-like buses) to Zumaia.
How have you trained or prepared for long-distance hiking or big elevation gains?
Peace and happy hiking,
Maria
Maria Labbato, PhD 