Decision-making and logistical planning can be vexing on an enneagram 9. Leading up to my camino – later contrasted by the simplicity of the trail – this 9 was overstimulated!
The first and biggest decision was which Camino to do. Just Google “map Camino routes”… there are many. Take a peek at my first post for the reasons I selected the Norte. But once committed to this coastal route, there were additional choices to be made since I didn’t have the time to complete the whole journey. It starts at the French border in Irún. For much of the first few stages it heads westward hugging the northern coast of Spain. After Ribadeo, the route turns inland and south until reaching Santiago. My desire was the first stage (I heard it was the most beautiful and includes San Sebastián) AND the last stage to reach Santiago. Then, I would also be able to visit the two regions I was most interested in, Pais Vasco (Basque) and Galicia. Also, to get the official certificate or Compostela, you need to complete the last 100km. Despite fast trains connecting large cities like Bilbao, Oviedo, and Santiago, much of northern Spain is not very well connected and multiple bus connections could be needed to go long distances. Once I realized that the bus ride to skip the middle sections (Cantabria and Asturias) was around 8 hours, I thought I should begin in Irún and simply walk as far as time permitted until heading back to Madrid for my flight home. Some places in Galicia that I booked were non-refundable, though, so I switched back to the original plan. This stroke of doubt cost 1 night of double booking and hours of unnecessary planning. But now, I have the middle sections mapped out for a future camino! A large positive for continuous walking would be making stronger connections with other pilgrims over a longer period of time. However, I felt unsure about when I would be able to return to pick up the camino and finish. So, the route was decided. I would walk most of the Basque region (4-5 days) and then find a ride share to Galicia, walking the rest into Santiago (8 days). In Spain, there seems to be a lot of users on BlaBlaCars. I found a ride that would drop me one mile from my accommodation in Ribadeo. My first day of walking out of Ribadeo would put me in Galicia.
The next big decision regarded packing. I originally planned to bring the REI 35 liter Traverse pack but during an 11 mile training hike to Pilot Mountain, and poor form/pack with no hip belt, I aggravated my knee. It was a symptom connected most to back pain and a tight hip/IT band. Between my back flare up and a tight knee the last 2 weeks before the trip, I went with the Osprey Tempest 22 liter day pack – after buying and returning 2 other types of bags/lumbar packs. Returning the larger pack, I would plan a courier service to bring along a small piece of luggage from accommodation to accommodation. Facebook groups are plentiful with insight, recommendations, support, and trolls! People recommended Correros, and their site seemed easy enough with the ability to transport carry-on size luggage. The site shows that you can add your accommodation the day before a transport.
To my distress, during my first couple of days as a tourist in San Sebastián, I spent too much time troubleshooting my Correros itinerary. After landing and trying to enter my accommodations and schedule, I realized you cannot type addresses. The system uses a drop-down, therefore your hotel or hostel has to be registered. That made me realize that there needs to be a reception desk with personnel at all times during the day. My San Sebastián accommodation was Airbnb and self check-in only; Correros would not pick up there. On top of that, I visited the main Correros office to inquire about the process and was given an uncertain response as to whether they will take my luggage, or if it needed to be a backpack. The specific service is called Paq Mochila. I learned later that they will respond via email rather quickly and that they DO take luggage, some rather large ones too! You can also name a non-listed accommodation (again, as long as there is reception) if you email. I learned this after I went out to Decathlon to buy a 20 liter pack to shove all my excess stuff into and ditched my roller carry-on. I also had to double book a different hostel the night before hiking out of San Sebastián so I’d wake up in a place they would pick up from.
Packing Decisions:
- A pocket knife
- Small first aid kit
- Toiletries (this was a big lift for me as I needed a lot/too much)
- Inflatable pillow, mini sound machine, eye mask, ear plugs (all worth it)
- Silk sleeping bag liner (for hostels and albergues)
- Light fleece pull over
- Poncho
- Shower flip flops and Birkenstocks for the town (I wish I had broken in new Oofos recovery sandals as my feet just felt sore from hitting hard payment so much and then sliding on firm Birks)
- Trail runners (happy with that choice since it was summer and they would dry much quicker than heavier boots)
- Hiking shorts, skort, and pants (didn’t need the pants and churches let you in with anything)
- 2 hiking shirts (one long sleeve, both UV protection… still felt the long sleeve was too hot, so I ditched it along the way for something lighter)
- 3 non-hiking bottoms (should have subbed one with athletic dress)
- 2-3 extra tops (needed more tanks)
- 2 sports bras, 1 regular bra
- 4 pairs of underwear
- 3 socks, 2 sock liners (I think the toe liners were hurting feet, didn’t wear them much)
- Selfie- stick (ditched it pretty quickly)
- Charging pack
- Headlamp (didn’t wake up early enough to use)
- Hiking poles (broke one on day 3 and continued with the solo stick)
- Bathing suit
- A few headbands
- Towel (brought one that was too large, left it and got a small micro fiber one. You need your own for albergues and hostels)
- Electrolyte packets
- 2 liter water sleeve
- Baseball hat and sunglasses (lost and replaced a pair, sometimes wished I had a fuller, wider brimmed hat)
- Journal and pen
Shifting from a roller to a backpack accounted for some of the deserted items, unfortunately.
Did I forget anything??
Peace and happy hiking,
Maria
Maria Labbato, PhD 